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Author Topic: The Lucas method of cloning salvia divinorum:  (Read 15675 times)
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Lucas
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« on: June 15, 2011, 11:43:47 PM »

The Lucas method of cloning salvia divinorum:

We start by strolling out into the yard looking for a suitable stalk to butcher. The tall one in the middle looks good. It has already flowered and lost most of its original leaves. Most importantly, it has new growth and the nodes are close together.



This is what the plant looks like after the stalk is removed.



The stalk is laid out and prepared for surgery. Any remaining large leaves are removed.



With a sharp razor blade, the stalk is cut just above each node. Be careful not to damage any of the new growth.



The individual pieces are dipped in a diluted solution of rubbing alcohol and liquid dish soap to kill insects and eggs. They are then rinsed in clean water, dipped in rooting hormone and planted in plastic party cups. I use the two-cup method.



I drip candle wax on the cut to seal it up.



Sometimes you get a twofer.



The clones are packaged and transported to the humidity chamber (45 gallon aquarium).



Once inside the humidity chamber the clones are provided with CO2. The bottle in the center contains yeast and sugar water. The lighting is two 4 foot 6500K T8 fluorescent bulbs on an 18/6 photoperiod. Occasional misting is very important at this stage as the clones have no roots and depend on high humidity and the water absorbed through their leaves.



After about a week the clones can be moved closer to the light and misting should be cut back.



After another week root growth should be obvious. You should be able to see roots through the side of the cup and growing out of the holes in the bottom. Misting is optional at this stage as the plants can now get water from the roots.



The plants are now ready to be moved into 1-gallon (#3) nursery pots.



Soon they outgrow the humidity chamber.



They are now moved to an area with a drop-light and reflective walls.





Once the leaves reach a decent size they are ready for harvest.



The plants are assembled.



And the larger leaves are broken off.



The plants are then returned to the grow area.



Happy Cloning!


« Last Edit: June 16, 2011, 01:08:10 AM by Lucas » Logged

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Hero4Evz
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« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2011, 05:27:32 AM »

Beautiful guide!!!
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Anteater
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« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2011, 08:38:20 AM »

Holy hell, Lucas. That's an awesome guide you have there. [ Genius + ]

 Grin

I look forward to the day when I have a stalk that long to butcher and root...  Wink
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Mr. Sage
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« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2011, 08:09:01 PM »

Verrrry Nice  Shocked Wink   Grin [ Genius + ]

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maagoat
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« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2011, 03:33:52 PM »

WOW! My Plant is big enough for that, I think I will try your method. Thanks Man  Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2011, 03:07:03 AM »

Hella nice, [Genius +]
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« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2011, 09:31:32 PM »

Very informative, genius +
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Lucas
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« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2011, 10:03:34 PM »

Thank you (^_^)
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« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2011, 06:23:19 PM »

I have a very lanky, unhealthy plant. Would this method possibly yield successful clones despite the condition the plant is in?

http://imageshack.us/f/20/img2642xq.jpg/


http://imageshack.us/f/534/img2643t.jpg/
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Hero4Evz
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« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2011, 11:07:00 PM »

I would strongly suggest cloning! It will give you a new plant so you can grow it with more light and remove the lanky issue your currently having.
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« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2011, 08:04:36 PM »

Ok, that will be this weekends project for me.  Grin Does it matter how hot the candle wax is that I drip onto the exposed tops? Will the nodes without any leaves root ok?  Huh?
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Hero4Evz
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« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2011, 08:25:27 PM »

I personally don't use wax. Nodes without leaves will root, but you need to ensure that they get a lot of light. They don't have much room to produce energy so they need long days of light to produce the energy to root.
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Babylove Woodrose
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« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2011, 11:16:22 PM »

Lanolin is what was used back in the day (still used today I think) for patching up plant holes.
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Lucas
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« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2011, 12:34:31 AM »

Ok, that will be this weekends project for me.  Grin Does it matter how hot the candle wax is that I drip onto the exposed tops? Will the nodes without any leaves root ok?  Huh?

Regarding candle wax: You don't need it. You can just cut the stalk and watch it slowly turn brown and die back to the next node (leaving you with an unattractive apex). If you do decide to try candle wax, be sloppy and have fun with it. CAUTION: Some colors don't go well with Salvia. Use common sense.

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Babylove Woodrose
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« Reply #14 on: September 21, 2011, 06:20:12 AM »

I think wax or some other material ought to be used to prevent airborne killers from getting access to the inside of the plant
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« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2012, 12:42:18 AM »

this is a crazy cool tech right here
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« Reply #16 on: September 15, 2012, 04:23:10 PM »

Amazing quide, i know something from canna cult. but i didnt know stuff about solution of alcohol and liquid soap, that is really professional, Thank You Man!
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Lucas
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« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2012, 11:57:38 PM »

Thanks! In my experience, cannabis doesn't seem to have as many problems with bugs as salvia does.

BTW, Welcome aboard. We're glad you found us!
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Mr. Sage
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« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2012, 06:44:59 PM »

Welcome!  Grin  Wink  Everytime I see this thread bumped up I smile  Smiley . [Genius +] (again , hehehe)
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Lucas
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« Reply #19 on: September 20, 2012, 01:11:39 AM »

Thanks Mr. Sage... (^_^)
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